WoodworkingPlansDIY.com · Free Field Guide
Woodworking Timber
Types, Tips & Usage
A practical guide to selecting the right wood for every DIY project — furniture, stools, tables, structural builds, sheds, decking and more. No jargon, no filler.
Choosing the wrong timber is one of the costliest mistakes in DIY woodworking — not just in money, but in time. Projects that split, warp, rot, or simply look wrong often trace back to a single decision made at the timber yard before a single cut was made.
This guide covers the timbers you'll encounter most often in hardware stores and sawmills across the UK, USA, Australia and New Zealand. For each species and board type, we explain why it excels at certain jobs and fails at others — the science behind the choice, in plain language.
Furniture and project hardwoods come first, because that's why most people start woodworking. Structural timber (including pine at its various treatment levels) follows. We close with finishing options, a moisture movement guide, and a comprehensive glossary of every term and acronym you're likely to encounter.
A note on Janka hardness: used throughout this guide to compare timbers, it measures the force needed to push a steel ball halfway into the wood surface. Higher numbers mean harder and more wear-resistant — but also heavier, more demanding on tools, and often more expensive. Softness is not weakness: it means faster working and lower cost. The skill is matching the timber to the job.
Contents
- Ch. 1 — Hardwoods: Furniture, Tables & Stools
- Ch. 2 — Versatile Mid-Range Timbers
- Ch. 3 — Pine: Framing, Sheds & Decks
- Ch. 4 — Engineered Boards (MDF, Ply, LVL)
- Ch. 5 — Wood Movement & Moisture
- Ch. 6 — Finishing: Oils, Coatings & Protection
- Ch. 7 — Master Comparison Table
- Ch. 8 — Glossary of Terms & Acronyms
- Ch. 9 — The Golden Rules
Visual Reference
Janka Hardness — At a Glance
Janka hardness measures the force (in Newtons) needed to push a steel ball halfway into a wood surface. It is the single most useful number for matching timber to application — it tells you whether a wood will dent under daily use, stand up to tools, or crush under a fingernail. The chart below covers every timber in this guide.
Hardwoods & Premium Timbers
Hard Maple
6,400 N
Worktops, stools, butcher block
White Oak
6,000 N
Furniture, flooring, cabinetry
Red Oak
5,600 N
Indoor furniture & flooring only
Ash
5,900 N
Chairs, handles, steam-bent frames
Teak
4,600 N
Outdoor furniture, marine use
Walnut
4,500 N
Feature furniture, turning
Cherry
4,200 N
Fine furniture, cabinets
Douglas Fir
3,100 N
Structural beams, rustic floors
Softwoods, Cedar & Engineered
Cedar (WR)
1,630 N
Cladding, outdoor — not flooring
Radiata Pine
1,630 N
Framing & structural (treated)
Soft Maple
3,800 N
Secondary furniture, painted use
↑ Below ~2,000 N: dents easily under regular use — choose finish and application carefully
Reference: the extreme
Balsa
67 N — models and craft only. Never structural, never load-bearing.
Janka values are approximate and vary by moisture content, growth conditions and testing method. Use as a comparative guide, not an absolute specification. Ratings sourced from the Wood Database and industry standards.
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Chapter One
Hardwoods — Furniture, Tables, Chairs & Stools
These are the timbers furniture is made from. They come from slower-growing broad-leaf trees and are denser, stronger, more beautiful — and more expensive — than structural softwoods. A well-built hardwood piece lasts for generations. This chapter covers the key species you'll encounter for DIY furniture, from affordable and practical to premium showpiece timbers.
Oak — White & Red
Quercus alba / Quercus rubra · Janka: ~6,000 N (white) / ~5,600 N (red)
Dining TablesChairs & Stools
FlooringCabinetry
Iron Fixings — Avoid
Best Uses
- Dining tables & benchtops
- Chairs, stools & bar stools
- Kitchen & bedroom cabinetry
- Hardwood flooring
- Bookshelves & storage
Quirks to Know
⚡ Oak is full of tannins. Iron or steel fasteners react chemically and produce permanent black stains. Always use brass, stainless steel, or coated fixings.
⚡ White oak has closed pores (tyloses) making it naturally water-resistant. Red oak does not — keep red oak indoors.
⚡ Quarter-sawn oak reveals striking "ray fleck" figure — worth paying extra for on visible faces.
Finishing Note
✓ Apply a wood conditioner before staining — oak's open grain absorbs unevenly and blotches badly without it.
✓ Hardwax oil or Danish oil brings out the grain and is durable for tabletops.
✗ Avoid water-based stains directly on raw oak without conditioning first.
Why it excels for furniture
- High density resists daily dents and scratches
- Open grain absorbs oil beautifully — rich, deep colour
- Strong in bending: ideal for chair legs and table aprons
- Widely available in multiple grades worldwide
Why it fails elsewhere
- Heavy — difficult in wall-hung or overhead work
- Red oak rots outdoors — wrong species for exterior
- Iron fixings cause staining — an avoidable but fatal error
- Overkill for painted cabinetry where pine or MDF is fine
Walnut
Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) / Juglans regia (English Walnut) · Janka: ~4,500 N
Feature FurnitureCoffee Tables
Turning & CarvingPremium Cost
Best Uses
- Feature dining & coffee tables
- Bedside tables & drawers
- Turned bowls & decorative pieces
- Knife & tool handles
- Cabinet door panels & veneer
Quirks to Know
⚡ The pale cream sapwood that borders the dark heartwood is normal. Plan cuts to exclude it, or embrace the contrast — both approaches work.
⚡ One of the few naturally dark timbers. Deepens further with age and oil — no stain required or recommended.
⚡ Lighter than its density implies — very pleasant to hand-tool compared to oak or maple.
Finishing Note
✓ Pure penetrating oils (tung oil, Danish oil) are ideal — they deepen the colour without masking the grain.
✓ Hardwax oil or lacquer for tabletops that will see heavy daily use.
✗ Avoid heavy pigmented stains — walnut's natural colour is the point of using it.
Why it excels
- Exceptional natural beauty — no stain required
- Works well with both hand tools and machines
- Stable once dry — low movement, reliable in tight joinery
- Takes very fine detail in carving and turning
Why it fails elsewhere
- Expensive — every wasteful cut is a significant cost
- Not suitable outdoors without heavy and regular protection
- Can be hard to source in larger structural sizes
Maple — Hard & Soft
Acer saccharum (Hard Maple) / Acer rubrum (Soft Maple) · Janka: ~6,400 N hard / ~3,800 N soft
WorkbenchesButcher Blocks
StoolsKitchen WorktopsStain-Blotch Risk
Best Uses
- Workbenches & tool benches
- Butcher block kitchen worktops
- Stools & stool legs (hard maple)
- Workshop & sports flooring
- Cutting boards (food-safe when oiled)
Quirks to Know
⚡ Hard maple is one of the hardest commercially available timbers — it dulls cutting edges quickly. Keep chisels and plane blades sharp.
⚡ Figured maple (bird's eye, curly, quilted) is stunning but very difficult to plane without tear-out. Use a card scraper instead of a plane on figured boards.
⚡ Closed grain gives a very smooth, hard surface when finished — prized for surfaces under heavy use.
Finishing Note
✓ Lacquer or polyurethane for worktops — resists scratching well.
✓ Food-safe mineral oil or butcher block oil for kitchen applications.
✗ Blotches badly with pigmented stains — apply a wash coat of shellac first if colouring.
Why it excels for work surfaces
- Exceptional hardness resists heavy impact and daily abuse
- Uniform tight grain ideal for smooth working surfaces
- Takes a high-gloss finish better than almost any other timber
Why it fails elsewhere
- Blotches with stain unless properly prepared first
- Hard on hand tools and router bits — wears edges fast
- Poor natural outdoor performance — not rot-resistant
Ash
Fraxinus excelsior (European) / Fraxinus americana (White Ash) · Janka: ~5,900 N
Chairs & Bent FramesTool Handles
StaircasesBest Shock Resistance
Best Uses
- Chair frames & bent-laminate backs
- Tool handles (axe, hammer, shovel)
- Staircases & handrails
- Sports equipment (oars, bat frames)
- Frames that need to flex and recover
Quirks to Know
⚡ Ash has the best shock resistance of any common furniture timber. This is why it's been used for tool handles for centuries — it bends under impact rather than splitting.
⚡ Steam bends exceptionally well — one of the best timbers for curved chair backs and bentwood work.
⚡ "Olive ash" (figured ash with wavy black grain streaks) is one of the most beautiful timbers available at a reasonable price.
Finishing Note
✓ Hardwax oil soaks into the open grain and builds a durable surface — ideal for chairs and tables.
✓ Traditional wax polish for pieces needing a softer, more natural feel.
✗ Not suitable outdoors without substantial treatment — ash deteriorates quickly in wet/dry cycles. UK supply is also affected by ash dieback disease.
Why it excels
- Highest shock resistance of common furniture timbers
- Bends and steam-bends without splitting
- Bold open grain looks outstanding under clear oils
- More affordable than oak or walnut
Why it fails elsewhere
- Poor outdoor durability without heavy protection
- Open grain requires more coats of finish to seal properly
- UK/European supply increasingly inconsistent (ash dieback)
Cherry (American Black Cherry)
Prunus serotina · Janka: ~4,200 N
Fine FurnitureBedroom Furniture
Ages BeautifullyColour-Sensitive
Why it Excels for Fine Furniture
- Heirloom dining & bedroom furniture
- Kitchen cabinetry & doors
- Musical instrument components
✓ Wonderfully smooth, close grain — planes and sands to a near-perfect surface with minimal effort. One of the most forgiving hardwoods to hand-tool.
✓ Deepens from pale pink-brown to a rich reddish-amber over years of exposure to light. Pieces genuinely improve with age.
Finishing Note
✓ Shellac wash coat before any stain to prevent blotching. Clear oil or lacquer over bare cherry lets the natural colour progression happen.
Cautions & Limitations
⚡ Uneven sun exposure causes visible tonal differences — if half a piece is in shadow and half in sunlight, you'll see a clear line. Position pieces accordingly.
✗ Not suitable outdoors — moderate hardness, low rot resistance.
✗ More expensive in markets where it must be imported (UK, New Zealand, Australia).
⚡ Freshly cut cherry looks unremarkably pale. Buy it knowing what it will become, not what it currently looks like on the shelf.
Teak
Tectona grandis · Janka: ~4,600 N
Garden FurnitureOutdoor Tables
Marine UseDegrease Before Gluing
Why it Excels Outdoors
- Garden & patio furniture
- Outdoor dining tables & benches
- Boat decking & marine joinery
- Outdoor shower slats
✓ Very high natural oil content makes it resistant to water, insects, rot and weather — with or without any added finish. Few timbers match it for outdoor longevity.
✓ Dimensionally very stable outdoors — minimal seasonal expansion and contraction compared to other hardwoods.
Finishing Note
✓ Can be left completely unfinished — weathers to a silver-grey naturally. Apply a penetrating teak oil annually to maintain the warm honey-brown colour.
Critical Cautions
⚡ The same natural oils that make teak weather-resistant repel adhesives. Wipe all gluing surfaces with acetone or a suitable degreasing solvent immediately before gluing and clamping — this step is not optional.
⚡ Silica content in teak is hard on cutting edges. Carbide-tipped tooling strongly recommended over high-speed steel.
✗ Expensive — using teak for indoor furniture is unnecessary and rarely justified by the result.
✗ Sustainability concerns around some sources — look for certified plantation-grown teak where possible.
Chapter Two
Mid-Range Timbers — Versatile, Widely Available, Great Value
These timbers bridge the gap between premium hardwoods and basic construction pine. Easier to source and more forgiving to work with, they're the backbone of most practical DIY projects.
Western Red Cedar
Thuja plicata · Janka: ~1,630 N
Outdoor CladdingGarden Furniture
Fence PostsNot Load-Bearing
Why it Excels Outdoors
- External cladding & shingles
- Garden beds & planters
- Outdoor furniture & fence panels
- Saunas & steam rooms
- Bee hive boxes
✓ Cedar contains natural thujaplicins — aromatic compounds that act as a fungicide and insect repellent. This is why it resists rot without chemical treatment.
✓ Exceptionally light for its size — roughly half the weight of oak. Easy to work, carry, and fix overhead.
✓ Weathers naturally to a silver-grey. Apply UV-stable penetrating oil annually to maintain the warm tone, or simply let it age — both look excellent.
Why it Fails Elsewhere
✗ Far too soft for high-traffic flooring — dents under regular foot traffic.
✗ Low bending strength — never use for load-bearing beams or structural lintels.
⚡ Film-forming finishes (varnish, polyurethane) tend to peel on cedar because cedar's natural oils interfere with adhesion. Stick to penetrating oils for outdoor applications.
Finishing Note
✓ Penetrating outdoor oil only — avoid film-forming finishes which will peel on cedar.
Douglas Fir
Pseudotsuga menziesii · Janka: ~3,100 N
Structural BeamsExposed Framing
Flooring (rustic)Resinous
Why it Excels Structurally
- Exposed structural beams (barns, workshops)
- Post-and-beam construction
- Heavy shelving
- Rustic flooring
✓ One of the best strength-to-weight ratios of any softwood. It's used as structural timber globally because it's strong, stiff and consistent.
✓ Bold, tight grain looks outstanding in exposed beam applications — the contrast between growth rings is dramatic and attractive when oiled.
Cautions
⚡ High resin content — always prime knots with a shellac-based primer before painting or resin will bleed through topcoats within months.
✗ Not ideal for fine furniture — grain too coarse and variable for delicate joinery.
✗ Moderate outdoor durability only — needs treatment for ground contact.
Finishing Note
✓ Danish oil or clear hardwax oil for exposed structural elements. Seals the resin and brings out the grain.
Chapter Three
Pine — Framing, Sheds, Decks & Outdoor Structures
Pine is the most widely used timber in construction worldwide. Affordable, easy to work, and — when correctly treated — enormously versatile for structural and outdoor applications. The critical point: untreated pine has almost zero resistance to rot and insects outdoors. All outdoor and structural performance comes from the preservative treatment applied at the mill. Using the wrong treatment grade is one of the most common and expensive DIY mistakes.
Pine by itself rots quickly in damp conditions. The defence against rot, termites, and fungi comes entirely from the preservative treatment it receives. Different treatment levels are rated for different hazard environments — from dry indoor framing all the way to in-ground contact in wet conditions. Using H2 (or UC2) pine where H4 (UC4) is required is like leaving your roof open to the rain. Check the label before you buy.
Pine Treatment (Hazard) Levels — International Reference
Treatment levels are designated H1–H5 in Australia/NZ, C1–C5 (Use Class) in the UK/Europe, and UC1–UC5 (Use Category) in the USA. The table below shows all three systems side-by-side.
| AU/NZ | UK/EU | USA | Where it can be used | Typical applications | Protection level |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| H1 | UC1 / C1 | UC1 | Indoors only, dry, no insect risk | Internal framing, indoor shelving, furniture carcasses not exposed to moisture | Insect resistant only |
| H2 | UC2 / C2 | UC2 | Indoors, protected from wetting | Wall studs, floor joists above ground level, protected roof framing | Insect + fungal decay (protected conditions) |
| H3 | UC3 / C3 | UC3B | Outdoors, above ground, exposed to weather | Deck boards, pergola rafters, fence rails, window frames, external cladding, fascia boards | Decay + insects (moderate weather exposure) |
| H4 | UC4A / C4 | UC4A/B | In-ground or in freshwater contact | Fence posts, deck bearer posts, pergola posts, retaining walls, garden edging | High decay + insects (ground contact) |
| H5 | UC4C / C5 | UC4C/5 | In-ground, severe conditions or saltwater splash | Marine piles, permanent in-ground posts in wet climates, wharf timbers | Extreme: decay, insects, marine borers |
⚠ Most common mistake: using H2/UC2 pine for deck posts because it came from the framing aisle at the hardware store. Framing pine is H2 — not rated for ground contact. Posts set into soil or concrete footings must be H4/UC4 minimum. In consistently wet climates, use H5. A rotting post discovered 3–5 years after building is an expensive and avoidable lesson.
Radiata Pine (Treated & Untreated)
Pinus radiata · Janka: ~1,630 N
H2: Internal FramingH3: Decking & Pergolas
H4: Posts & BearersUntreated = Indoors Only
Best Uses by Grade
- H1/H2: Wall studs, roof trusses, internal floor joists, internal shelving
- H3: Deck boards & joists, pergola beams, fence palings, external cladding
- H4: Fence posts, deck bearer posts, any timber in ground contact
Why Pine Works for Structures
✓ Straight grain gives consistent, predictable structural performance — reliable for engineered calculations.
✓ Absorbs preservative treatment deeply and evenly when the correct process is used — the treatment is highly effective when the grade is right.
✓ Lightest structural timber for its strength — easier to handle on site.
Why Pine Fails Without Correct Treatment
✗ Untreated pine has near-zero rot resistance outdoors — it will degrade within 1–3 years in damp conditions.
✗ Pine heartwood does not accept preservative treatment as readily as sapwood — always buy certified-grade timber, never assume.
⚡ Resin bleed: in warm weather, knots exude resin through paint. Seal all knots with shellac-based primer before painting.
⚡ Poor choice for natural (clear-finished) furniture — the grain is ordinary. Pine shines when painted, or used structurally where appearance is secondary.
Balsa — A Warning More Than a Recommendation
Ochroma pyramidale · Janka: ~67 N (for reference: hard maple is 6,400 N)
Scale ModelsRC Aircraft
Nothing StructuralNo ShelvesNo Outdoor Use
Where it belongs
Scale models, RC aircraft frames, dioramas, and craft projects. Balsa is the lightest commercially available timber in the world — it floats effortlessly and cuts with a craft knife. This makes it genuinely useful for modelling. That is genuinely the extent of appropriate uses.
✓ For modelling: cuts cleanly with a knife, sands easily, bonds with PVA or cyanoacrylate, and is remarkably light.
Where it does not belong
✗ Door lintels or any structural element. It will crush under very moderate load.
✗ Shelving — even a few books will cause permanent bowing.
✗ Outdoor use — absorbs moisture rapidly, has no rot resistance.
⚡ To contextualise: a Janka score of 67 N means it is one of the softest materials sold as timber. You can dent balsa with a fingernail. A hardwood workbench is ~95 times harder. Never use it structurally.
Chapter Four
Engineered Boards — MDF, Plywood, LVL & More
Engineered boards are not inferior to solid timber — they serve specific purposes that solid timber often cannot, including very flat, dimensionally stable panels, consistent sizes, and in the case of LVL, structural spans that no solid timber could match economically. Every experienced woodworker uses them. The skill is knowing which product suits which application.
| Type | Made From | Strengths | Weaknesses | Best For | Water? |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MDF | Fine wood fibres + resin, heat-pressed | Perfectly smooth face, takes router profiles crisply, paints beautifully | Very heavy, swells permanently with moisture, edge screws strip easily | Painted cabinetry, shelving, speaker boxes, router moulding | ✗ Never |
| Standard Plywood | Cross-laminated veneers, bonded with adhesive | Strong in all directions, holds screws well, lighter than MDF | Face veneers can be poor on cheap sheets, edges need treatment | Cabinet carcasses, subfloors, shed lining, structural panels | ⚠ Exterior grade only |
| Marine Plywood | Cross-laminated hardwood veneers, waterproof adhesive (WBP) | No internal voids, waterproof glue throughout, very strong | Significantly more expensive than standard ply | Boat building, wet areas, workshop benchtops, outdoor signs | ✓ Yes |
| LVL | Parallel-laminated veneers, high-pressure bonded | Very high and consistent structural strength, available in large spans | Structural use only, unattractive appearance | Lintels, floor beams, ridge beams, long-span structural headers | ⚠ Protected from direct exposure |
| OSB | Oriented wood strands + resin binder | Structural, cheaper than plywood, more moisture-resistant than MDF | Rougher surface, not attractive, swells at edges if wet | Wall sheathing, roof decking, sub-floors, shed construction | ⚠ Protected use only |
| Particle Board | Wood chips + resin binder | Very cheap, flat surface, good for veneered panels | Very weak edges, poor screw holding, swells badly with moisture | Flat-pack furniture cores (melamine-faced), internal shelving | ✗ Never |
MDF is widely used in painted kitchen and bedroom cabinetry. This is entirely appropriate — it gives crisp routed profiles and takes paint perfectly. The issue arises only when people use it structurally, near moisture, or outdoors. Wear a fine dust mask when cutting MDF — the particles are very fine. Cut outdoors or with extraction if possible.
Chapter Five
Wood Movement & Moisture — Why Projects Warp
This is the single most important concept beginners rarely learn until something goes wrong. Wood is hygroscopic — it constantly absorbs and releases moisture from the surrounding air. As it does so, it swells and shrinks. Across the grain, this movement can be 3–8mm per 100mm of width over a single season. Design against this and your project will fail. Design with it and it lasts forever.
Movement happens almost entirely across the grain (tangentially and radially). Along the grain (longitudinally), movement is negligible — less than 0.1%. In practice: a 600mm-wide solid timber tabletop can move 18–24mm sideways over a year. A 1,200mm table leg? Barely 1mm lengthways. A fixed joint on a wide panel will crack every time.
Teak
Tangential
Radial
Very stable — one of the best outdoor timbers for dimensional stability
White Oak
Tangential
Radial
Moderate — quarter-sawn significantly reduces movement
Ash
Tangential
Radial
Medium-high — allow to acclimatise thoroughly before use
Walnut
Tangential
Radial
Moderate — one of the more stable furniture hardwoods
Cherry
Tangential
Radial
Moderate — acclimatise well before panel glue-ups
Pine (Radiata)
Tangential
Radial
Moderate — fairly stable once fully dried and treated
✓ Design With Movement
- Use floating panels in all frame-and-panel doors and carcass sides
- Attach tabletops with buttons, figure-8 clips or tabletop fasteners — never rigid screws
- Use slotted holes when attaching breadboard ends to tabletops
- Acclimatise timber in your workshop for 72 hours minimum (ideally a week) before cutting
- Buy kiln-dried (KD) timber for all indoor furniture
- Understand that furniture will move — build in tolerances
✗ Fighting the Wood
- Don't glue solid wood panels into fixed frames — they will crack it
- Don't attach breadboard ends with a continuous glue line across the width
- Don't use green (unseasoned) timber for furniture — it will warp dramatically
- Don't ignore equilibrium moisture content (EMC) — acclimatise before use
- Don't assume purchased timber is at the right MC — check with a moisture meter if serious
Chapter Six
Finishing — Oils, Coatings & Protection
The right finish protects the timber, enhances its appearance, and determines how the piece ages. The wrong finish — or applying it without proper preparation — will look poor and fail early. Choose based on three factors: where the piece lives (indoor vs outdoor), the level of use it will see (tabletop vs decorative), and the timber species.
Penetrating Oil
Linseed Oil / Tung Oil / Danish Oil
Soaks into the wood fibres and cures from within. Does not form a surface film — it cannot peel or crack. Enhances grain and deepens colour. Needs periodic reapplication (annually outdoors, every 2–3 years indoors). Tung oil is food-safe when fully cured.
Best for: Furniture, turned pieces, tool handles, raw hardwood surfaces, any application where a natural feel is desired.
Deck & Exterior Wood Oil
Penetrating Outdoor Oil
Purpose-built penetrating oil for outdoor timber. Contains UV inhibitors and mould inhibitors not found in furniture oils. Applied directly to clean, dry, bare timber. Maintains and restores the natural colour outdoors. Reapply every 12–24 months depending on exposure.
Best for: Deck boards, garden furniture, pergolas, cladding, external joinery. Not compatible with surfaces that have existing film-forming coatings (sand back first).
Hardwax Oil
Hard Wax + Oil Blend
A modern hybrid: penetrates the timber but leaves a micro-thin protective wax layer on the surface. Extremely durable for furniture and flooring. Easy to spot-repair without refinishing the whole surface — a significant practical advantage. Increasingly the professional standard for furniture.
Best for: Dining tables, kitchen worktops, hardwood floors, chairs, any surface that sees daily use.
Lacquer (NC & 2K)
Nitrocellulose or Two-Pack Lacquer
A film-forming finish that dries hard and clear on the surface. NC lacquer is easy to apply and repair. Two-pack (2K or catalysed) lacquer is significantly harder and chemical-resistant — the professional standard for kitchen cabinetry. 2K requires adequate ventilation during application.
Best for: Cabinetry, joinery, musical instruments, painted furniture. Not ideal outdoors — UV degrades it over time.
Polyurethane (PU)
Water-Based or Oil-Based PU
A tough, clear plastic-like film coating. Oil-based PU adds a warm amber tint over time (adds warmth to pale timbers). Water-based PU stays very clear. Both are highly durable and water-resistant. Harder to repair than oil finishes — usually requires full sanding and recoating.
Best for: Hardwood floors, worktops, surfaces requiring maximum scratch and water resistance. Very popular for floors in the USA.
Paint (Interior & Exterior)
Primer + Topcoat System
Completely covers the grain — chosen when colour matters more than showing the wood. Always use a primer on bare wood. On resinous timbers (pine), use a shellac-based primer to seal knots against resin bleed. Exterior paint must be UV-resistant and flexible enough to handle timber movement.
Best for: Painted cabinetry, MDF furniture, pine framing, exterior timber where appearance is not the priority.
Decking Stain / Semi-Transparent Stain
Pigmented Penetrating Stain
Contains colour pigments plus penetrating oils and UV inhibitors. Semi-transparent versions show the grain while providing colour and UV protection. Solid-colour versions act like a thin outdoor paint. Generally requires reapplication every 2–3 years. Good for refreshing weathered timber.
Best for: Decks, fences, external cladding, weathered outdoor timber being restored.
Shellac
Shellac (Dewaxed)
A natural resin dissolved in alcohol. Sticks to virtually everything and everything sticks to it — this makes it the ideal sealer coat and universal primer. Blocks tannins, knot resin, and water stains from bleeding through topcoats. Also a beautiful standalone finish for antiques and restoration.
Best for: Sealing pine knots before painting; blocking oak tannins before staining; isolation coat between incompatible finishes; antique restoration.
💡 Finishing order: always apply the most penetrating products first (oils), then film-forming coats (lacquer, PU) on top if needed. Never apply oil over a cured film coat — it cannot penetrate. Always test any finish on a piece of scrap from the same board before applying to the project.
Chapter Seven
Master Comparison Table
| Timber | Hardness | Furniture? | Outdoor? | Structural? | Cost | Key Watch-Out |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oak (White) | ●●●●○ | ✓ Excellent | ✓ Yes | ⚠ Heavy | Med-High | Iron fixings → permanent black stains |
| Oak (Red) | ●●●●○ | ✓ Excellent | ✗ No | ⚠ Heavy | Med-High | Not water-resistant like white oak |
| Walnut | ●●●○○ | ✓ Premium | ✗ No | ✗ Too costly | High | Plan cuts around sapwood contrast |
| Hard Maple | ●●●●● | ✓ Work surfaces | ✗ No | ⚠ Possible | Medium | Blotches with stain if not prepped |
| Ash | ●●●●○ | ✓ Chairs & frames | ✗ No | ⚠ Limited | Medium | UK supply issues (ash dieback disease) |
| Cherry | ●●●○○ | ✓ Fine furniture | ✗ No | ✗ No | Med-High | Colour change in uneven sunlight |
| Teak | ●●●○○ | ⚠ Outdoor furniture | ✓ Excellent | ✗ Too costly | Very High | Degrease surfaces before gluing |
| Cedar (WR) | ●●○○○ | ⚠ Light use only | ✓ Excellent | ✗ Not load-bearing | Medium | Too soft for floors; film finishes peel |
| Douglas Fir | ●●●○○ | ⚠ Rustic only | ⚠ Treated only | ✓ Excellent | Low-Med | Resin bleeds through paint — prime knots |
| Pine (H1/H2) | ●●○○○ | ⚠ Painted only | ✗ No | ✓ Internal framing | Low | Indoors / protected only — not outdoors |
| Pine (H3/UC3) | ●●○○○ | ✗ No | ✓ Above ground | ✓ Decking & pergolas | Low | Not for in-ground contact |
| Pine (H4/UC4) | ●●○○○ | ✗ No | ✓ In-ground OK | ✓ Posts & bearers | Low | Verify grade certification — don't assume |
| MDF | ●○○○○ | ⚠ Painted only | ✗ Never | ✗ No | Very Low | Water = permanently swells. Dust mask when cutting. |
| Marine Ply | ●●●○○ | ⚠ Utility | ✓ Yes | ✓ Yes | High | Only use where moisture is a genuine issue |
| Balsa | ○○○○○ | ✗ Models only | ✗ No | ✗ Never, ever | Low (craft) | No structural capacity whatsoever |
Chapter Eight
Glossary of Terms & Acronyms
Every term and abbreviation you are likely to encounter in plans, at a timber yard, or in woodworking guides — explained in plain language.
| Term | Short Form | Plain English Meaning |
|---|---|---|
Air Dried | AD | Timber dried naturally by airflow over months or years (not in a kiln). Generally higher moisture content than KD. Cheaper, but more prone to movement after purchase. Common for structural timber and green oak. |
Kiln Dried | KD | Timber dried in a large oven (kiln) to reduce MC quickly and consistently — typically to 8–12% for furniture grade, 15–19% for structural. More stable and ready to use immediately. Always prefer KD for indoor furniture. |
Moisture Content | MC | The percentage of water in the wood relative to its oven-dry weight. Green timber: 30–100%+. Structural timber at purchase: 15–19%. Furniture-grade: 8–12%. Indoor furniture in a heated building will eventually settle at ~8–10% MC. |
Equilibrium Moisture Content | EMC | The MC level wood naturally settles at in a given environment. A piece in a centrally-heated house will reach ~8–10% EMC. Understanding EMC explains why timber must acclimatise before cutting — if you bring cold, damp timber inside and immediately build a table, it will move as it acclimatises. |
Dressed All Round | DAR | Timber machine-planed smooth on all four sides. The dimensions stated are the finished (actual) size. Most hardware store timber is DAR. Known as PAR (Planed All Round) in the UK. |
Planed All Round | PAR | UK terminology for DAR — timber planed smooth on all four faces. See DAR above. |
Rough Sawn | RS | Timber straight from the sawmill — rough surface, slightly larger nominal dimensions. Cheaper, but needs further planing and surfacing. Common in timber yards; less common in hardware stores. |
Nominal vs Actual Size | — | Nominal size is the trade name ("2×4"). Actual (finished) size is smaller — a "2×4" is actually ~38×89mm after drying and planing. Always measure the actual piece, never rely on the nominal name for precise work. |
Janka Hardness | JHN / lbf | A standardised test measuring the force (Newtons or pound-force) to embed a steel ball halfway into the wood surface. Used to compare timbers for wear resistance. Balsa ≈ 67 N. Hard Maple ≈ 6,400 N. Janka is a relative guide, not an absolute — a timber with a lower score can still be perfectly suitable for its intended use. |
Heartwood | — | The dense, usually darker inner core of the tree. Harder, more stable, and more rot-resistant than sapwood. The most desirable part of the log for furniture and outdoor use. |
Sapwood | — | The lighter, younger outer layers that transported water when the tree was alive. Generally softer, less stable, and less rot-resistant than heartwood. In walnut, shows as a cream border around the dark core. For structural and outdoor use, heartwood is strongly preferred. |
Quarter Sawn | QS | A milling method where the log is cut radially. Boards have growth rings running mostly perpendicular to the face. Result: more stable (less cupping), shows striking ray fleck figure in oak, generally more expensive than flat-sawn. |
Flat Sawn / Plain Sawn | FS | The most common milling method — logs sawn in parallel slices. Growth rings appear as arches on the face. More prone to cupping than QS, but cheaper and yields wider boards. |
Figure | — | The visual pattern created by grain, growth rings, rays and irregularities. Highly figured timber (bird's eye maple, crotch walnut, fiddleback ash) commands a significant premium. Whether to use figured or plain timber is a design choice, not a quality issue. |
Tear-Out | — | When wood fibres are torn rather than cut cleanly during planing, routing or sawing — resulting in a rough, chipped surface. Caused by cutting against the grain, blunt tools, or trying to take too deep a pass. Reduce it by reading grain direction before planing and using sharp tools. |
Laminated Veneer Lumber | LVL | Engineered structural timber made by gluing multiple thin veneers with grain running parallel. Very strong, stiff, and consistent — used for lintels, beams, and floor joists. Not decorative. Common in modern construction as an alternative to solid structural timber. |
Cross Laminated Timber | CLT | Large structural panels made of timber layers bonded at right angles. Used in mass-timber building construction. Very strong in all directions. Growing in use as a sustainable alternative to concrete in multi-storey construction. |
Medium Density Fibreboard | MDF | Sheet material made from fine wood fibres and resin binder, pressed under heat. Very smooth face, consistent, no grain direction, takes paint beautifully. Heavy. Cannot get wet. Used widely in painted cabinetry and interior joinery worldwide. |
Oriented Strand Board | OSB | Sheet material made from large wood strands arranged in alternating layers and bonded with resin. Structural — used for wall sheathing, flooring and roofing. More water-resistant than standard MDF but rougher in appearance. Cheaper alternative to structural plywood. |
Copper Chrome Arsenate | CCA | A traditional chemical preservative treatment for pine using copper, chromium and arsenic compounds. Very effective. The characteristic green tinge of treated pine is usually CCA. Now replaced by safer alternatives for most residential use, but still used in heavy structural applications. |
Alkaline Copper Quaternary | ACQ | A more modern, arsenic-free pine preservative. Equally effective for most residential applications. Important: ACQ is corrosive to standard steel fasteners — always use stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanised fixings with ACQ-treated timber. |
Hazard Level | H1–H5 / UC1–UC5 / C1–C5 | Classification system for treated pine indicating which environments the timber is rated to withstand. H1/UC1/C1 = indoor protected. H3/UC3/C3 = outdoor above ground. H4/UC4/C4 = in-ground contact. H5/UC5/C5 = extreme conditions including marine. Higher number = heavier treatment = more demanding conditions tolerated. |
Nitrocellulose Lacquer | NC Lacquer | Fast-drying clear finish popular for furniture and musical instruments. Usually spray-applied. Redissolves in its own solvent, making repairs easy. Not as hard as 2K lacquer but much more user-friendly. Common in professional furniture finishing. |
Two-Pack Lacquer | 2K | Catalysed coating where two components are mixed before use and cure through a chemical reaction. Extremely hard, durable and chemical-resistant. The standard finish for kitchen cabinetry. Isocyanate hardeners require proper respiratory protection during application. |
Polyurethane | PU | Hard, clear film coating. Oil-based PU adds a warm amber tint; water-based stays clear. Very durable and water-resistant. Widely used for floors and worktops. Difficult to spot-repair — usually requires full sanding and recoating. |
Board Foot | BF / FBM | Unit of timber volume used in the USA and Canada. One board foot = 1 inch thick × 12 inches wide × 12 inches long (144 cubic inches). Hardwood in the USA is typically priced and sold by board foot. UK, Australia and NZ sell by linear metre or cubic metre. |
Green Timber | — | Freshly cut timber that has not been dried. Very high MC — often 30–100%+. Will shrink, warp and crack significantly as it dries. Suitable only for rough structural use, green oak timber framing, or applications where the timber will season in place. |
Tangential / Radial Movement | T / R | The two directions of cross-grain wood movement. Tangential (T) movement runs parallel to the growth rings — the larger of the two values. Radial (R) movement runs perpendicular to growth rings. Quarter-sawn timber moves mainly radially (smaller value), making it more stable than flat-sawn (which moves mainly tangentially). |
Water-Based Preservative | WBP | Usually encountered on plywood specifications: WBP (weather and boil proof) adhesive indicates the glue used between veneer layers has been tested to resist delamination in wet conditions. Marine plywood uses WBP adhesive throughout. The term is also used for some chemical timber treatments. |
Chapter Nine
The Golden Rules — What Every Builder Should Know
✓ Always Do This
- Match the timber to the application, not to the price
- Check the treatment rating (H/UC/C level) on structural pine before buying
- Acclimatise timber in your workshop for at least 72 hours before cutting
- Use brass or stainless steel fixings with oak and tannin-rich timbers
- Pre-drill hardwoods and dense timbers before screwing
- Seal end grain with finish first — it absorbs far faster than face grain
- Allow for wood movement in all wide panel and tabletop construction
- Test your finish on offcuts of the same board before applying to the project
- Prime all pine knots with shellac-based primer before painting
- Buy kiln-dried (KD) timber for all indoor furniture
- Degrease teak surfaces with solvent immediately before gluing
- Condition maple, cherry and similar closed-grain timbers before staining
✗ Never Do This
- Use MDF anywhere near moisture, water, or high humidity
- Use balsa for anything structural — not even a light shelf
- Use H1/H2 pine for posts or anything in ground contact
- Use red oak outdoors expecting it to last
- Glue solid wood panels rigidly into fixed frames — they will crack it
- Use film-forming finishes (varnish, polyurethane) on cedar — they peel
- Use green or unseasoned timber for furniture
- Assume nominal size equals actual size
- Use iron or standard steel fixings in oak — black staining is permanent
- Apply oil over a cured film-forming finish — it cannot penetrate
- Skip acclimatisation — timber bought cold and wet will move after cutting
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